Football Top 10’s- Most Underrated Goals of All Time

This is a blog I’ve been thinking about for ages and one that requires minimal effort from me but hopefully creates lots of enjoyment for the reader. The best thing about football is goals. Whether they’re tapped in from a yard or smashed in from thirty, showcase sensational technique or awe-inspiring agility, are works of individual brilliance or complete team synchronisation. And we all know the classics. The Van Basten volley. The Maradona non-handball one against England. Zidane in the Champions League Final. Rooney’s overhead kick. The list goes on.

So, I want to shine a light on the great goals that you may either have missed, or entirely forgotten. The hidden gems of the screamer section. This is totally subjective of course and speaks just as much to the kind of goals I like, as it does to which of them actually has the most merit, but I’ve tried to diversify as much as I can and pick a different goal for each slot in this top ten. A disclaimer also goes out here that I’m not including goals that are so often called underrated that they can no longer in fact claim to be underrated- the epitome of this is Pajtim Kasami’s worldie for Fulham at Selhurst Park.  

And so without further ado, and with all clips provided, please enjoy this selection of some of the game’s secret stunners.

#10- Gareth Bale vs Sunderland (Premier League, 2013)

Okay, so there’s a reason this is number ten. It’s the least unique goal of any of this collection, in the sense that a lot of players have hit thunderbolts into the top corner over the years and Bale himself has done it on the regular. But there’s just something so strangely satisfying about this one. It’s the way he allows the ball to spin up onto his chest, the way he stands dead still as the terrified defender backs off, the way he shifts it just enough to wrap his foot around it. This was Bale at his very best; his final season at Spurs where he was the most feared player in the land and he would win matches all on his own. This was also an 90th minute winner on the final day, so in many ways he fittingly saved his best till last.  

#9- Olivier Giroud vs Sweden (World Cup Qualifier, 2017)

Now for another man who has made a career on scoring spectacular goals. Think of Giroud and everyone thinks of the scorpion kick, but my favourite goal of his is this lesser-known gem for his country in an unremarkable World Cup Qualifier. I just have a thing for self-set-up goals; it’s the skill I have attempted (to no success) the most. It’s just so damn sexy. While the best of this category is surely Ruben Neves vs Derby, that’s too well-known and this one from Giroud is nearly as good, with the way the ball arcs in from outside the post just adding to the sumptuous technique on show. Merci Olivier.

#8- Cristiano Ronaldo vs Liverpool (Champions League, 2014)

This might actually be my favourite goal of all time. I know, it’s a rogue shout. It’s one I remember watching live and thinking that the commentators and pundits weren’t making enough of a fuss over and it just gets better with every new watch. It’s only so low on this list because there’s nothing out of this world about it, but for me, it’s a showcase of elite-level football at its very finest. Madrid pass the ball around, working it through the thirds, and then it comes to Ronaldo, who plays a one-two with James Rodriguez. Rodriguez has ended up having a frustrating and arguably underwhelming career, after his glittering introduction at the 2014 World Cup, but he’s always possessed that maverick talent that I love, and here is a prime example. Control with the right, inch-perfect dab with the left and Ronaldo rushes on to it bury a chance that I think only he in his prime could finish so emphatically. Beautiful.

#7- Lionel Messi vs Arsenal (Champions League, 2011)

Where Ronaldo appears, Messi inevitably follows. Another goal in the Champions League. Another against an English side. Another that probably doesn’t even make the top thirty in either legend’s astonishing career. But another work of sheer genius. For me, the joy of watching top-level football is seeing a player do something that the average footballer could not only fail to do, but something they would fail to even think about. We’ve seen this scenario a million times: attacker is put through one-on-one with the goalkeeper with the ball bouncing slightly awkwardly. Sometimes players will get good contact and score, sometimes they’ll dummy the keeper and go round him, sometimes they’ll miscontrol or scuff it entirely. No-one, bar Lionel Messi of course, would consider flicking the ball straight up, so that the keeper dives under it, and then volleying into the empty net. The best player to ever play the game and here is a perfect example of why.

#6- Luis Garcia vs Anderlecht (Champions League, 2005)

You know a goal’s underrated when there’s only a blurry 6-second clip of it. A top ten goal compilation wouldn’t be complete without a headed effort, and this is arguably the hardest to pick, as its so difficult for a header to stand out. This effort from Luis Garcia against Anderlecht does exactly that however. A. He’s on the edge of the box when he makes contact. B. He’s facing the wrong way. C. There’s not even that much pace on the cross. It’s all generated by his neck muscles and body position (watch to the end and pause on the close-up of the contact, it’s all so deliberate). The greatest header ever? Possibly. And it’s a goal few people will ever have seen.

#5- Elano vs Newcastle (Premier League, 2007)

Now for my free-kick pick. There have been some iconic goals in this particular genre, such as Ronaldo vs Portsmouth, Beckham vs Greece, Ward-Prowse vs Wolves etc. This might just be my favourite though. Elano was not the first or last to go for the laces/knuckleball style of shooting from a dead-ball, but I’ve rarely seen someone go for the keeper’s side when using that technique. He says to Shay Given: I don’t care that you’re there, this fucker’s going in anyway. And he absolutely rips it up, hitting the very definition of top bins. It’s got wobble, it’s got pace, it’s got height. It pretty much has everything. Shout out to the commentary as well, which just adds to the enjoyment.

#4- Luis Suarez vs Newcastle (Premier League, 2012)

Funnily enough, its Newcastle again on the receiving end of another one-in-a-million wondergoal, but this time five years later. I cannot for the life of me understand why this goal is never in the debate when it comes to the Premier League’s Greatest. People don’t even consider it Suarez’s best, as they tend to think about his multiple screamers against Norwich. But, referring back to my Messi entry, when someone does something so unique and impressive as this, it has to be celebrated. It’s a brilliant long pass from Luis Enrique, but a near impossible one to control, coming over Suarez’s head and with Coloccini on his back. And yet he does control it- on his fucking shoulder. An insane piece of balance and technique and strength, and he then has the presence of mind to calmly round the keeper and pass into the net. Astonishingly good. And I’ve not seen another goal anything like it.

#3- Radamel Falcao vs America de Cali (Friendly, 2012)

Full disclosure: the only reason this is not number one is because it was in a friendly. Now we all love an overhead kick; Ronaldo vs Juventus, Bale vs Liverpool, Rooney vs City etc. It’s such an impressive feat to reach the ball at a difficult height and connect well enough to find the net. It’s even more impressive when you’re scoring one from a corner! Honestly, the timing on this is just remarkable. He has to wait and make sure he jumps at exactly the right moment as the ball comes in from the corner flag. And unlike Rooney, there’s not an inch of shin involved; the connection is as clean as a whistle. Simply the best goal that I bet you’ve never seen or heard of.

#2- Matthew Lowton vs Stoke (Premier League, 2013)

To kick this off, this goal did not even win Goal of the Month. Which rankled with me at the time and has stayed with me ever since. Okay, so Van Persie’s goal against Aston Villa is a classic and was in a game that won United the title, but I’m sorry this is just better and it was in the last minute to win a crucial match in Villa’s relegation battle, not an easy title procession. The ball is dropping out of the sky, Matt Lowton has two players charging him down. He controls it perfectly on his chest and then unleashes a dipping volley that soars into the top right corner. And from a player who I don’t think ever scored again for Villa, if at all in his career. If that was someone like Neymar, it would be on a constant Instagram loop. Get the petition ready- #JusticeforLowton.

#1- Wilfried Gnonto vs Cardiff (FA Cup, 2023)

And so we reach number one and the whole reason I was inspired to start thinking up this list. Again, like Falcao’s, this will be forgotten because of the game in which it was scored in- a third round replay in which Leeds won at a canter, a game I doubt many people saw or even know happened. But for me, it’s the best goal I’ve seen in a long time. Everyone knows Paulo Di Canio’s iconic double-leg scissor volley against Wimbledon, and this is nearly as good as that. The most difficult thing in football is to connect with a ball from a distance as it is dropping in front of you. And he has the added factor of a defender being right in front of him, only just missing the header. To time the scissor kick that well and get so much power on it is sensational. It’s not a mishit, its right off the laces once more and its past the Cardiff keeper before he can even move. A recent contender, but one that deservedly takes the top spot of the most underrated goals of all time.

Chelsea are broken- How I would fix them.

I’ve lived a very fortunate life as a Chelsea supporter since I started following them close to twenty years ago. I’ve seen endless trophy wins, a parade of big-name signings and the recruitment of world-leading managers and there’s rarely been a season where I haven’t had something to shout about. In this context, I’m sure it’s difficult for any fans of other sides to feel any sympathy for me or any other Chelsea fans during the club’s current miserable plight, and that’s fine. Every team is owed a bad season every now and then, and my god have The Blues had an absolute shocker during the 2022-23 campaign.

I wrote a blog at the start of the campaign, aptly named Worrying Signs at the Start of Chelsea’s New Era, in which I pleaded for patience from the fanbase, in spite of some questionable early decisions from the Boehly-Clearlake consortium. I stand by those comments and still think that you cannot judge the new owners on such a short space of time, especially as they inherited quite a few problems from the new ownership, which some Chelsea fans seem very keen to ignore. However, the facts are there for all to see: Chelsea sit 11th in the Premier League table in April, went out of both domestic cups in the first round (albeit away to City both times) and barring a miracle, will be easily eliminated by Real Madrid at the Champions League quarter-final stage. Added to that, we are on our third manager of the season, have spent over £600 million in the transfer market in one of the craziest scattergun strategies ever seen and have still only scored 42 goals in all competitions. For comparison, Man City have 123. Jesus.

Crisis is an over-used word in football and the problems at big clubs are nearly always exaggerated; look at the transformation at Manchester United this season compared to last. However, none of the Premier League’s ‘big six’ have had a league campaign as bad as Chelsea’s for a very long time, and there is no denying that the club is in dire need of a complete overhaul, in almost every on-field department. And by that, I don’t mean signing even more players. In fact, that has been the problem so far: Boehly frantically pressing the “make another signing” red button whenever things got worse. No, it means getting rid of a lot of the dead weight in a ridiculously bloated squad, getting in the right manager to start the rebuild and making some pretty obvious tactical changes.

Here is what I would do:

New Manager: Luis Enrique

No-one loves Frank Lampard more than me. And I was sufficiently charmed by his shocking return as interim manager, but making his appointment permanent, irrespective of how well he does in the final games of the season, would be yet another mistake. Thankfully, that doesn’t seem to be on the cards and it is fairly obvious that the position of the next permanent coach will go to one of two men: Luis Enrique or Julian Nagelsmann.

One of the many things Graham Potter’s cursed reign at Chelsea told us is that there is a reason the big clubs in Europe always look at the same pool of around ten to fifteen names. I actually liked the fact that someone like Potter was given a chance, but it became increasingly clear over time that he was just too nice and too normal to succeed at the Bridge. Whether it should be the case or not, ego and charisma matter just as much as tactical nous at the top level. You need to be a bit mad, especially at Chelsea. Of our most successful managers in recent years, Conte, Mourinho and Tuchel all share an intensity and a mean streak. More softly-spoken figures like Sarri, Villas-Boas and Potter have been chewed up and spat out.

And that’s why I would go with Enrique. Nagelsmann’s a superb coach but he is still staggeringly only 36 years old and his sacking at Bayern hinted at some naivety regarding managing those above him as well as in his own dressing room. Enrique on the other hand strikes me as someone who doesn’t give a sh** about what anyone else thinks, and that’s exactly what we’re after. He was in a dangerous position midway through the 2014-15 season with Barcelona, fighting battles internally, but won the argument and then delivered a treble. We’ll have a bit of that please.

Players to Sell:

One of Kepa/Mendy; Koulibaly; Gallagher; Ziyech; Pulisic; Aubameyang.

This list could have been a whole lot longer, but I’ve tried to be realistic in terms of who the club might, and could, sell. Some are obvious as in the cases of Ziyech and Aubameyang, some are for the purpose of trying to recoup some money and value (Pulisic & Gallagher) and others are to free up a spot in the squad for a better replacement (Koulibaly/one of the keepers). Added to this, members of our yearly loan army should finally be jettisoned permanently, even for cut-price deals (Bakayoko, Rahman and Hudson-Odoi could all in theory command a transfer fee). I would also look to loan out someone like David Datro Fofana, who clearly isn’t ready yet, and possibly the same for talents like Chukwumueka and Hall, who look really promising, but aren’t going to get enough minutes in such a big squad.

Players to Keep:

Chalobah; Loftus-Cheek; Cucurella; Mount

To be clear, I’m not bothering to speak about the players who will obviously still be at Chelsea next season. In fact, due to our eight-year contract policy, it’s safe to say the likes of Mudryk, Fernandez and James will be at the Bridge for the long haul. Instead, I’m reflecting on any that could in theory be in the above ‘to sell’ category.

For the first two, Trevoh Chalobah and Ruben Loftus-Cheek, it’s simply a case of retaining two dependable, home-grown squad players. I think the general consensus amongst Chelsea fans is that these two could go in a heartbeat, but this isn’t FIFA career mode and you are required to retain a certain number of home-grown players within the squad. In the case of Loftus-Cheek, he can play in a number of different positions and has arguably actually had the best season of his Chelsea career (though that’s not the highest bar) whilst Chalobah is needed to cover the injury-prone Wesley Fofana at right-centre-back.

Now for Marc Cucurella. This will be the most unpopular opinion because there’s no getting away from it: he’s had a nightmare. I said at the time that we had paid over the odds for him in another example of Boehly’s over-eager spending and he has subsequently been one of the biggest victims of Potter’s constant formation-changing. However, I think he needs another season. And another season where he only plays at wing-back, when Chilwell isn’t available obviously, as that is where he excelled at Brighton the season before and where his obvious defensive vulnerabilities won’t be as exposed.

And finally, Mason Mount. Something that seemed totally inconceivable at the start of the season is now apparently more than likely, and that is the prospect of Mount leaving Chelsea to join a Premier League rival. This would be a gigantic mistake. Yes, he’s had a poor season, but it’s the first time he’s had a series of niggling injuries and let’s be fair, who hasn’t been disappointing during this wretched campaign? Chelsea are a noticeably better team with Mount in it; he injects badly needed energy and emphasis and he has also proven himself to be one of the most tactically-adaptable attacking players in European football. We’ve been here before with the likes of De Bruyne and Salah and to a lesser extent people like Tomori and Abraham. Watching someone who is genuinely Chelsea through-and-through excel, as he undoubtedly would, at a rival would be heart-breaking and must be avoided at all costs.

Positions to strengthen in: Goalkeeper; Striker

The irony of all the doom and gloom around Chelsea at the moment is that, as I just evidenced above, there is still a great deal of quality already at the club. In fact, I think every sensible Blues fan appreciates that in a lot of positions, the players we have are good enough, it’s just a case of creating a system and culture that allows them to flourish.

However, there are two notable exceptions, and they come at the two crucial areas of the pitch. Chelsea have lacked a world-class goalkeeper for a good few seasons now, ever since Courtois left the club. Before anyone says it, Edouard Mendy was superb during the 2020-21 campaign, deservedly winning the UEFA Best Goalkeeper award, but that was a case of a player over-performing and reaching a peak which he’ll never be able to repeat. And again, there have been moments this season when Kepa has shown glimpses of why we paid such extortionate money to bring him to the club.

It still remains a fact that neither are good enough to get Chelsea back to the top level; their weaknesses are too glaring to overlook. Mendy isn’t good enough with his feet to be able to build from the back as all top sides do, and Kepa still concedes too many shots that other top keepers would easily save. I don’t necessarily have a name in mind, as there is a shortage of world-class replacements available, but perhaps Andre Onana from Inter Milan or Gregor Kobel at Dortmund would be the upgrade we desperately need.

And now for the big one: striker. A position that seems to haunt Chelsea more than anyone else. When we don’t have a good one, as is the case currently, our attack is as blunt as a spoon. When we go out and buy one (often for huge money) it’s a disaster. See the catastrophic roll call of Lukaku; Werner; Morata; Torres and of course most recently Aubameyang. Which makes investing in one this summer a delicate balancing act.

For all the frustration around his inconsistent scoring, there is a reason that a series of Chelsea coaches all find a place for Kai Havertz; the German has a lot of good qualities in terms of linking the play, pressing and making runs in behind. And as shown when Lukaku was available, we often look a better side with him in the team instead. So, signing yet another big-name, big-ego striker is not the solution (as I desperately pointed out when we signed Aubameyang). Instead, I’d look for someone on the up in their career, who is willing to run the hard yards and also accept that he won’t necessarily play every single game.

Again, I haven’t got one name in mind (before anyone says it, Victor Osimhen will not be joining us with the other options he has available) but there are plenty available in the Premier League and beyond. People like Ollie Watkins or Ivan Toney, or, for a continental option, Randal Kolo Muani or Marcus Thuram (who could be got on a free). Someone who fits the team playing style, doesn’t arrive with sky-high expectations because of a ridiculous fee and who can develop alongside the other rising talents we have.

Build an identity

This last point could probably be considered the most important of all. All season, it has been so frustrating watching a side that doesn’t seem to have any clear idea of their identity or how best to build attacks and create chances. Even if you accept sacking Thomas Tuchel was a mistake, the German was struggling with this problem in the latter days of his tenure and things have only got worse since Potter and Lampard have taken over.

First and foremost, the new coach should stick to one formation and that formation should be playing three at the back. It’s the formation that has always suited this Chelsea side best. It’s the formation that last won us the Premier League back in 2017. It’s the formation that propelled us to the unlikely Champions League triumph in 2021. We have two of the best wing-backs in world football in Reece James and Ben Chilwell and should finally have some good back-ups/competition next season in new recruit Malo Gusto and Cucurella. Three at the back also gets the best out of the ageing but still exquisite Thiago Silva. It isn’t a fix in itself, but it should certainly be a starting point for the new permanent manager.

And lastly, the other affliction that Chelsea have suffered with for far too long is a miserably slow pace of play. Again, it crept in under Tuchel, got worse with Potter, and has culminated in a crippling lack of purpose under Lampard. Possession is all well and good, but if it doesn’t lead to anything, then it’s mind-numbingly dull. And as evidenced by the Brighton embarrassment, we’re not even good enough at it to justify attempting it in the first place. I am not advocating switching to direct, long-ball football (I wouldn’t have vouched for Enrique if that was the case) but there needs to be a clear, embedded instruction to play quickly and to progress forward at every opportunity. It would get the best out of our pacy, maverick forwards such as Mudryk and the incoming Nkunku and it would also quickly get an increasingly tense and disenchanted home crowd back onside.

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As I hope has become apparent, none of my suggestions are particularly ground-breaking, but that is very much by design. As horrendous as Chelsea’s fate seems in this current moment, there are some very obvious and simple fixes available to them. The new ownership has so far been a story of panicked, disjointed thinking and knee-jerk decisions. The best thing they could do to win over the fanbase is learn from their failings. That is the only way the Blues will return to their trophy-winning best.  

Football Top 10’s- Premier League Debut Managerial Seasons

It can be hard treading new ground when writing football content. There are so many people who know so much about the beautiful game, that it can be difficult coming up with an original opinion, or a different angle to view a certain subject. So, with that goal in mind, I’ve decided to come up with a top ten series, highlighting some of the forgotten gems in recent football history. I highly doubt my opinions will be universally popular, but I hope to at least start some new discussions, in some lesser-explored areas of the footballing canon. To start with: Best Debut Managerial Seasons in the Premier League.

Now, it is crucial to establish the parameters of this. The first one is obvious, it must be a manager’s first season at the club, so promoted managers who are making the step up to the top division for the first time aren’t eligible (sorry to Nuno Espirito Santo and Chris Wilder among others). Second, it must be a first full season, so any mid-season changes also do not apply. That rules out the likes of Thomas Tuchel and Roberto Di Matteo and their sensational Champions League triumphs, and also ignores the work of the classic relegation escapologists like Sam Allardyce or Tony Pulis. And finally, I will be looking only at that first season as a standalone achievement, so any subsequent success doesn’t count towards the ranking. That means that Messrs Guardiola and Klopp, for once, will not be featured as both had transitionary first seasons to set up the excellence that followed later.

Once I had the ten names below in mind, my ordering of them was done by combining pretty standard metrics of success such as trophies won or number of points accumulated, with more subjective considerations like what they had inherited upon arriving. And kicking us off at number ten is the man who inspired this whole idea in the first place…

10. Erik Ten Hag- Manchester United 2022/23*

Okay, so it’s too early to call on this one. And if Erik Ten Hag was to go on and add both the Europa League and FA Cup to the Carabao Cup already under his belt, then he would be propelled up the list to fight it out with the real big-hitters. But, judging him only on his achievements so far, he has still done enough to warrant a spot. Not only has he already won silverware, but the job he has done in turning possibly the worst Manchester United side there has ever been into a cohesive and tough-to-beat outfit in around six months is a fantastic piece of coaching. He’s made tough calls and got them all right, from seeing off Ronaldo to dropping Maguire to benching Rashford for tardiness. It looks like United may have finally got the right man at the helm after the desperate period of the post-Ferguson years.

9. Slaven Bilic- West Ham United 2015/16

This debut managerial season had some extra emotional resonance as it was also West Ham’s final season at their beloved Boleyn Ground. Ex-player Slaven Bilic was handed the reins after the largely loveless relationship with Sam Allardyce was ended in the summer and he went on to deliver a seventh-placed finish and a record points tally (until David Moyes’s team broke it a couple of seasons ago) as well as implementing a much more appealing style of football, largely led by the mercurial brilliance of summer signing Dimitri Payet. Throw in impressive away victories at Arsenal, Liverpool and Manchester City and Bilic’s largely forgotten first season deserves a space on this list.

8. Roberto Martinez- Everton 2013/14

Ah, Roberto Martinez. What happened to you? Once one of the most exciting young managers in European Football has now become a derided figure who seems to have become permanently stuck in International Football, probably as he knows the big club jobs are no longer available to him. Back in 2013/14, Martinez had the difficult job of replacing David Moyes at Everton, after the Scotsman left for the hot-seat at Manchester United (spoiler; that hasn’t made this list…). It was seen as a bit of a risky appointment as Martinez had just been relegated with Wigan, though it was his incredible FA Cup victory with the Latics that had secured his reputation. What followed was Everton’s best ever points tally of 72 and a fifth-place finish, with Martinez expertly blending the steely solidity he had inherited from Moyes’s team and adding a more modern, possession-based flair. Unfortunately, this was as good as it would get for Martinez and Everton, as he then lost the fans through some misguided post-match interviews as Everton’s plummet down the table began.

7. Michael Laudrup- Swansea City 2012/13

Now this is the connoisseur’s choice of debut managerial seasons. How many people have not only  forgotten that Michael Laudrup managed Swansea but that he actually won a major trophy in his first season in charge? The Danish great succeeded Brendan Rodgers in South Wales when he left for Liverpool and he built on the strong identity Rodgers had cultivated, playing stylish and progressive football as he claimed a 9th place finish in the Premier League. However, it is the extraordinary victory in the League Cup final of 2013 that marks Laudrup’s debut season out, as it remains Swansea’s only major trophy in their 100-year history. Just like his star striker for the season, Michu, Laudrup has enjoyed little success since, meaning this remains a freakish managerial hidden gem.

Joint 5 and 6. Manuel Pellegrini- Manchester City 2013/14 & Carlo Ancelotti- Chelsea 2009/10

I don’t plan on making a habit of doing joint positions, but it is just so difficult to choose between these two managerial debut seasons. Both ended with them winning Premier League Titles and even more strangely, both finished on the same number of points with 86. On top of that, both Ancelotti and Pellegrini created teams that played thrilling attacking football, with Chelsea and City both passing 100 league goals in their respective seasons. And to further prove how close this was to call, both managers also added a further honour to their league title, with Pellegrini winning the League Cup and Ancelotti the FA Cup. With so little between the records of their sides, neither of these two grandmasters of football management deserves to be ranked below the other.

4. Rafa Benitez- Liverpool 2004/05

This was the hardest manager to rank on this list and I deliberated for a while over how to compare Rafa Benitez’s debut season at Liverpool with the other contenders near the top. On one hand, it was a pretty unremarkable league campaign, with Liverpool finishing 5th, below Merseyside rivals Everton. On the other, it ended in the defining game of noughties European football, as Liverpool’s thrilling comeback against AC Milan in Istanbul landed Benitez the Champions League. It comes down to that age-old debate of which is the bigger achievement, winning the League or the European Cup? For my money, Benitez’s Miracle in Istanbul gets him the nod over Ancelotti and Pellegrini, but is just too much of a ‘fluke’ to earn him any higher than fourth place overall.  

3. Antonio Conte- Chelsea 2016/17

There are a few reasons why Antonio Conte’s debut season at Stamford Bridge in 2016/17 gets him the bronze medal, ahead of a Champions League winner and other league champions as well, and it is all to do with context. While Ancelotti and Pellegrini inherited sides that had been competing for titles each year anyway, Conte took over at Chelsea’s lowest point during the Abramovich era, with Jose Mourinho’s second spell ending in disaster and the Blues sinking to a tenth place finish. Inspired by his change to a three-at-the-back formation, Conte led Chelsea to thirteen successive wins in the autumn and winter and ultimately a fifth Premier League title in May. He also managed a record number of Premier League wins… until Pep Guardiola’s centurions trumped it just twelve months later.

2. Jose Mourinho- Chelsea 2004/05

Jose Mourinho’s first spell at Chelsea is the benchmark for all managerial appointments, in terms of both cultural impact and success on the pitch. His first press conference, where he declared himself the “special one” and flashed that trademark arrogant and charming smirk, shook up the foundations of Premier League football and set new expectations for managers in terms of charisma and status. He then promptly won Chelsea their first championship in fifty years, added the league cup for good measure and was arguably only denied the Champions League by that famous Luis Garcia ‘ghost goal.’ On top of that, it was a record Premier League points tally (for the time) and a record fewest numbers of goals conceded, which still stands and is unlikely to ever be broken. Finally, whilst Ancelotti, Pellegrini and Conte all arguably won their titles in seasons when their main rivals were going through transitions, Mourinho’s team dethroned Arsenal’s Invincibles of 03/04. He would be a fitting and deserving winner of the best debut season for a manager… if it wasn’t for one man.

1. Claudio Ranieri- Leicester City 2015/16

Dilly ding dilly dong! When Claudio Ranieri was appointed Leicester manager in the summer of 2015, it was seen as a bit of a joke. Leicester were immediately tipped for relegation and Ranieri was written off as a bumbling dinosaur ill-suited to Leicester’s requirements. What followed was the greatest footballing story ever told. At 5000/1 odds, Leicester won their one and only Premier League title, with a team largely unchanged from the one that had barely escaped relegation the year before. He masterfully handled the pressure that came upon the Foxes as they became unlikely contenders, playing the media perfectly and tactically adapting to make the team more defensively solid after Christmas. It all ended unhappily the season after, but it remains the greatest managerial achievement of the Premier League era and therefore has to take the number one spot on this list as well.

World Cup Team of the Tournament and Awards

At time of writing, there is one game left at the 2022 World Cup. The final between France and Argentina is a fitting finale for what has been a fantastic tournament, filled with upsets, drama and plenty of magic moments.

This should not serve as some kind of vindication for staging it in Qatar, with everything from the host nation’s pitiful performances on the pitch to the lifeless atmospheres and half-empty stadiums showing what a poor choice they were (and that’s only from a sporting perspective) but there were clearly some benefits to staging it in the middle of the season, with star players still at the peak of their form.

This tournament has also shown us that the traditional footballing hierarchy is growing less and less prominent, with teams all over the world now able to compete on a tactical and physical level. There were more teams from Asia in the knockout stages than South America and the heroic Moroccans were the first ever African semi-finalist.

With so much to discuss, here are my picks for the best eleven of the tournament, with a few honourable mentions thrown in:

GK- Yassine Bounou (Morocco)

Spoiler, this is not the first Moroccan in this team. The North Africans have surely been the team of the tournament, topping a difficult group and then beating Spain and Portugal on their way to the last four. And that magic run has been built on the sturdiest of defences. Bounou has the joint-most clean sheets in the tournament and has made key saves in their games, whilst his heroics in the penalty shoot-out against Spain will go down in his country’s history.

Honourable Mentions: Dominik Livakovic (Croatia); Emiliano Martinez (Argentina)

RB- Achraf Hakimi (Morocco)

Hakimi has not only been a crucial part of the aforementioned watertight Moroccan defence but is also such a massive part of their offensive strategy. His blistering pace down the right-flank is such a weapon and at times he was their most advanced player. His performances have perhaps marked him out as the best right-back in the world at this moment in time.

Honourable Mentions: Denzel Dumfries (Netherlands); Nahuel Molina (Argentina)

CB- Romain Saiss (Morocco)

I promise this is not just the Moroccan team but one of my favourite things about the World Cup is seeing a player I had thought to be totally average turn into an international superstar. Saiss played like John Terry or Carlos Puyol at this tournament, throwing his body in front of everything and winning every header anytime the ball came into his box. And on top of that, he seemed to be playing with a constant hamstring injury. Had he not been restricted by the injury in the final games, Morocco may have gone even further.

Honourable Mentions: John Stones (England); Pepe (Portugal)

CB- Josko Gvardiol (Croatia)

One of the most obvious picks and for good reason. Gvardiol was highly thought of before, but has emerged as the best young centre-half in World football after his performances at the World Cup. He’s built like a s***house, lighting quick and good on the ball. He’ll not be short of suitors in the summer.

Honourable Mentions: Thiago Silva (Brazil); Cristian Romero (Argentina)

LB- Theo Hernandez (France)

This was probably the hardest position to pick as I don’t think there was an obvious standout left-back in the tournament. Hernandez gets it on the basis of his one goal and two assists. Considering he only came into the team because of an injury to his brother, Lucas, that’s not bad going. How he copes with a certain Lionel Messi tomorrow is a different matter entirely.

Honourable Mentions: Luke Shaw (England); Daley Blind (Netherlands)

CDM- Sofyan Amrabat (Morocco)

There are always break-out stars at a World Cup and this time there have been none bigger than Sofyan Amrabat. He plays his club football away from the spotlight for mid-table Serie A side Fiorentina, but he has been absolutely world-class for his country. That tackle on Mbappe is a tournament highlight.

Honourable Mentions: Aurelien Tchouameni (France); Casemiro (Brazil)

CM- Jude Bellingham (England)

Maybe there’s a bit of bias here and there are certainly other contenders for the spot, but Bellingham has just been so, so good. He can quite literally do everything: tackle, dribble, run in-behind, assist, score headers. The lot. England are lucky to have him and if he lives up to his astronomic potential, they might have a genuine world-leading player on their hands.

Honourable Mentions: Azzedine Ounahi (Morocco); Mateo Kovacic (Croatia)

CM- Antoine Griezmann (France)

I think Griezmann has been one of the most underrated players of his generation. And its testament to what a good player he is that he has undergone a complete transformation in position and role within this French team. From being their central striker and main goal-getter at Euro 2016 to something more akin to a creative midfielder now, at times just as impressive defensively as offensively. He deserves more respect and this tournament might finally have earned him that.

Honourable Mentions: Luka Modric (Croatia); Bruno Fernandes (Portugal)

RW- Lionel Messi (Argentina)

Do I even need to write anything on this one? The greatest footballer of all time. Putting on one final show at surely his last ever world cup. Maybe not the constant force he once was, but still capable of moments that no other player can match. It feels written that he finally gets to lift the trophy that has eluded him. I am among those wishing he does.

Honourable Mentions: Hakim Ziyech (Morocco); Bukayo Saka (England)

ST- Olivier Giroud (France)

Similar to Griezmann, Giroud firmly belongs in the ‘criminally underrated’ category. In fact, he might actually be the most underrated player ever. He’s basically won it all, he scores big goals and his link-up play has always been flawless. And at 36, he’s still doing it at the highest level. Deservedly now France’s record goal-scorer, he’s another who has had one hell of a last dance.

Honourable Mentions: Julian Alvarez (Argentina); Richarlison (Brazil)

LW- Kylian Mbappe (France)

I find myself wanting to dislike Mbappe. The ridiculous saga over the summer was further evidence that he is very much an indulged superstar who has an ego similar to Cristiano Ronaldo. But f*** me, he is good. And when he’s at this best, as he has been at times in Qatar, he’s unstoppable. Electric pace, lighting quick feet and lethal finishing. He’s the obvious heir apparent to Messi and Ronaldo as the best player in the world.

Honourable Mentions: Cody Gakpo (Netherlands); Ivan Perisic (Croatia)

And now for some traditional and not-so-traditional awards to celebrate the best and worst of the tournament…

Best Player- Lionel Messi

It’s a toss-up between him and Mbappe but Messi plays in a weaker team and has dragged them through single-handedly at times.

Best Young Player- Josko Gvardiol

Bellingham and Enzo Fernandez are contenders, but Gvardiol just about edges it for overall importance to his team’s performances.

Surprise Package- Japan

I know it’s Morocco really, but I’ve talked enough about them already. Japan have been my favourite team to watch this tournament with their fearless attacking football a real joy. Their victories over Germany and Spain were incredible.

Best Game- Argentina 2-2 Netherlands (Quarter-Final)

This game had everything you want in a football match. An astonishing assist from Messi; a thrilling comeback from the Netherlands, including a brilliantly inventive last-minute free-kick routine; disgraceful behaviour/elite s***housery depending on your persuasion with Paredes volleying a ball into the Netherlands bench; loads of bookings; whole-team scraps; a penalty shoot-out. And of course, Messi calling Wout Weghorst a donkey. The only time those two will ever be mentioned in the same sentence.

Best Moment- The two or three minutes of madness in Group E

This is a niche one and it requires the screenshot above to explain. But for two or three glorious minutes, a group containing former champions Spain and Germany had Japan and Costa Rica going through. Despite Costa Rica losing 7-0 to Spain in their first game. Something that could only happen in football. Germany went and ruined it by turning the game around against the Costa Ricans but just for a moment, we existed in another universe where logic disappeared and nothing made sense.

Biggest Disappointment- Denmark

Again, maybe not the obvious choice, as I think most people would have Belgium here, but Denmark were absolutely abysmal. Most people had them tipped as dark horses after their performances at Euro 2020, but they finished bottom of the weakest group in the tournament. Scoring just one goal. Rubbish.

My England World Cup Squad 2022

With just one matchweek of the Premier League to go before the first ever mid-season World Cup, the minds of players and fans alike are starting to re-focus on Qatar. Gareth Southgate is due to pick his 26-man squad for the tournament this Thursday and the debates of who should and will be included have long since begun in television studios and pubs around the country.

With the unfamiliar timing of the competition, there has been the added factor of cruel last-minute injuries, with the likes of Reece James and Ben Chilwell among those who look as if they are going to be forced to miss out. Meanwhile, there is the age-old form vs past achievements debate with the likes of Harry Maguire, Jadon Sancho and Kalvin Phillips struggling for game time for their clubs for varying reasons.

With all of that to consider and weigh up, here is who I would take on the plane. Gareth, if you’re reading, take notes…

Goalkeepers:

Jordan Pickford, Aaron Ramsdale, Nick Pope

Easy-peasy here. Dean Henderson is maybe the only other viable contender but he’s made some mistakes at Forest. Pickford to start, Ramsdale as deputy and Pope to help out in training.

Defenders:

RB: Trent Alexander-Arnold, Kieran Tripper and Kyle Walker

Southgate’s favourite position, as is the joke, and certainly England’s strongest in terms of the depth available. I actually think this has gone from one of the hottest debates to one of the simplest, due to form and the injuries to Kyle Walker and Reece James. Trent Alexander-Arnold’s claims on a starting berth have weakened due to his struggles this season, but he has to go for his crossing ability from deep areas. England are going to have to break down packed defences in the group stage and wide areas is where the team will get time and space. If playing five at the back, Tripper gets in as the right-wing-back and Walker, when fit, will slot in his right-centre-back role. If James was fit, he would be there too.

CB: Ben White, John Stones, Conor Coady, Harry Maguire, Eric Dier

So, the age-old question: To slabhead or not to slabhead? Harry Maguire has been England’s most consistent defender during Southgate’s tenure as manager but has endured a miserable last year and has lost his place in the United side. My biggest issue with Southgate will not be if he takes Maguire to Qatar; I think he sort of has to now. It’s that he never gave the alternatives a chance. What was the point of putting Fikayo Tomori or Marc Guehi in recent squads if you weren’t going to give them any minutes on the pitch? It’s now too much of an ask to throw them in to a World Cup game with no real previous international experience.

Meanwhile, Ben White has been excellent for Arsenal this season and can fill in for Walker in the RCB role while he still regains fitness. John Stones is a dead-on starter whilst Conor Coady and Eric Dier make up the numbers for two reasons: they suit a back three and they’re known for being good squad members. When there’s not too much to choose between the various options, you may as well pick who you think is best for morale.

LB: Luke Shaw, Ryan Sessegnon

Everyone felt for Ben Chilwell this week. It’s hard enough being deprived a World Cup place by injury, but to get injured in the closing minutes of a dead rubber game is particularly cruel. Luke Shaw has therefore become a certain starter as England’s only proven option at left-back whilst the back-up spot goes to Ryan Sessegnon, though he’d do well to get any minutes on the pitch.

Midfielders:

Declan Rice, Jude Bellingham, Jordan Henderson, Mason Mount, James Maddison, Phil Foden, James Ward-Prowse

Some of these are nailed on and some are wildcards and gambles. Declan Rice will start as the holder and one of England’s great hopes for the tournament is the prodigy that is Jude Bellingham, who has the ability and temperament to have a Gazza-like influence on proceedings. In terms of more attacking options, Mason Mount and Phil Foden will go and probably rotate in either wide areas or as the number 10. Jordan Henderson will perform his customary “steady older head to bring on after seventy minutes” role.

And then James Maddison is the romantic option. There is so much talk around him but his performances for Leicester merit the attention. He played like Kevin De Bruyne against Everton yesterday. Plus it’s a guarantee that England are going to need to throw on a game-changer at some point in the tournament; Maddison can be that maverick who can make a difference. Finally, James Ward-Prowse goes because he’s really, really good at free-kicks and penalties. That’s literally it.

Attackers:

Wingers: Bukayo Saka, Raheem Sterling, Jack Grealish, Marcus Rashford

In wide areas, it’s a case of variety being the spice of life. We’ve got players who will dribble at their opponents, cause problems and win fouls like Saka and Grealish, and then speed merchants who can get in behind like Sterling and Rashford, who possess a greater goal threat. Those who just miss out are the likes of Bowen and Sancho, mainly because with the likes of Mount and Foden also capable of playing wide, I just don’t think you need too much of the same thing.

Strikers: Harry Kane, Ivan Toney

There’s no point even discussing Kane other than to say that for all the talk of the talent we possess, if we didn’t have his goals, we’d have as much chance of winning the cup as Iran. His back-up option has provided a lot of discussion and there are a number of names in the frame, a few in excellent form as well. To me, it’s all irrelevant. Kane’s never going to be taken off unless we’re 5-0 up so the person chosen is going to be nothing more than a glorified water-boy. Therefore, there is only one reason to pick someone here: Penalties. Southgate may well decide to repeat his tactic from the Euro 2020 final and put on his best penalty-takers in the final minutes of extra-time. And if that’s the metric, then it has to be Ivan Toney. The bloke doesn’t miss.

Anatomy of a Scene- “The Grand Budapest Hotel”- “The Police Are Here” Scene

I want to talk about one of my all-time favourite films: The Grand Budapest Hotel. For me, it’s a joyous, stylish, endlessly funny and rewatchable classic and in my opinion, the very best of Wes Anderson’s impressive collection. The challenge in writing about it was therefore not in coming up with things to say but in choosing only one scene to focus on, as practically every frame of the film is a masterpiece in its own right.

I have decided to go with the “The Police Are Here” scene which takes place roughly a half hour into the film and signals the first big twist in the narrative. The full scene can be viewed here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DzrJBcwcm_o

The Camera:

Now if anyone has ever seen a Wes Anderson film, or even if you have heard anything of the acclaimed director at all, you’ll know that his trademark style and camerawork has a reputation all of its own. It’s basically become it’s own genre at this point: A Wes Anderson Movie. And one of the defining components of that style is symmetry. Perhaps the most common shot in an Anderson film is the character being perfectly centre-frame with the background behind them deliberately designed to be as balanced and even as possible.

Even more astonishing is that for The Grand Budapest Hotel, Anderson actually changes the aspect ratio of the film for each separate time period in which it takes place. I won’t bore you with the technical details but essentially he makes the 1920’s scenes appear like the films of the actual 1920’s, just by the way he shoots them, and that is just beyond inspired.

Anyway, back to the scene. It starts with lots of different shots, with the focus switching from the Hotel worker delivering the message, back to Zero and Monsieur Gustave, back again as the messenger departs and then into two trademark symmetrical frames where Gustave and Zero look out the window and then speak to each-other, a gap in the curtain between them.

However, once they leave that room and head downstairs to the lobby, the camera then doesn’t move for nearly an entire minute, fixed in a position, waiting for Gustave to arrive in its centre. Even better is that it remains even after he sprints away from the police. This is done to show that at this point in the narrative, the entire world of the story revolves around Gustave and rather than the camera leaving him at this moment of crisis, instead it is as if he has chosen to leave the frame.

The Comedy:

I’m going to talk about both dialogue and performance together here because the two work in perfect harmony to create another key facet of the scene: its humour. Ralph Fiennes has an absolute ball as Gustave throughout the entire film, bringing an exaggerated energy to the extraordinary character. Even in the simplest exchanges where no obvious jokes are present, like Gustave’s response to the messenger, there is still lots of humour, with each line delivery and pause perfectly timed.

And then in this exchange between Gustave and Zero, it’s just a brilliant piece of scriptwriting, though once more the timing of the lines by the respective actors elevates it to higher levels of hilarity:

G: Have you ever been questioned by the authorities?

Z: Yes, on one occasion.

G: What?

Z: I was arrested and tortured by the rebel militia after the desert uprising

G: Right, well you know the drill then; Zip it!

The Colour

This is something I would almost never point out in a scene analysis as whilst never incidental, it is rarely as important as other aspects like the music or acting, but in The Grand Budapest it forms such a crucial part of the world that Anderson creates. Why the film works so well, and why it has such a charming and feel-good quality to it is because it never appears to us like the real world, but rather a glamorised, slightly surrealist version of it. And Anderson’s use of colour is central to that.

The background of the first room is simultaneously both bright and dull, with the colour scheme being a kind of beige and orange combination. This is to ensure the eye is always on the characters who are dressed in a much more vibrant purple. Even when the action moves to the far grander lobby, with the hotel’s bright, red carpet visible, that becomes more or less obscured when Gustave and Zero approach, and instead the only background colours are once more bright and bland.

Finally, the difference in the clothing between the police, decked in a dull grey, and Gustave and Zero in their luxurious purple is an obvious comment on the characters and a veiled anti-Military message. These are subtle details but every single thing is deliberate and meticulously planned in The Grand Budapest Hotel and that is why it has such an enduring and intrinsic charm.

Lessons from the Edinburgh Fringe

You may have heard (if you follow me on any social media platform you definitely have…) that I took a show that I co-wrote, co-produced and then performed to the Edinburgh Fringe Festival 2022. It’s now been a few days since the last performance and I’ve had time to reflect on the experience as a whole, something I definitely couldn’t do whilst it was happening, such is the festival’s intrinsically manic, non-stop nature.

In general, the experience lived up to any lofty expectations I had and probably surpassed them as well. I managed to never lose sight of the fact that it was an honour and a privilege to be putting a show on in the first place and that meant that whatever was thrown our way, good or bad, it made it a lot easier to take it all in our stride.

Some, if not the majority, of the performers at the Fringe are hoping to utilise the festival as their big breakthrough moment. The careers of many comedians and performers were indeed launched in Edinburgh and so there is a distinct scent of aspiration and occasionally even desperation that lingers in the dressing rooms and venue bars. I never thought of our show in the same way. And so I guess there wasn’t the weight of pressure that many of our fellow acts must have felt.

And yet on the flip side, there have also been so many people who have praised us for having the “courage” to do this and that they wish they could do the same one day. Well, you can! I’m not going to deny there’s quite a lot of thought and effort involved, but I guarantee you have put just as much thought and effort into something else in your life that won’t have produced anything like the rewards that the Fringe will. And if you are ever so slightly considering it, I hope the following little guide can be the thing that tips you over the edge…

So with the caveats established that this is by no means a “How to Make it at the Fringe” guide and certainly not a “How to have the perfect Fringe” guide either, I hope that these little tips can help to make performing at the festival a less intimidating prospect. To put it as bluntly as I can: If we can do it, with our limited budget, experience and expertise, and it can still go incredibly well, then really anyone can.

#1- Sell, but don’t Oversell

If anyone has been to the Fringe before, then you will incredibly familiar with one thing: Somebody rapidly reeling off a perfectly rehearsed one-sentence pitch about their show, whilst stuffing a flyer into your hand. And if you’re brave enough to walk down Edinburgh’s busiest street, The Royal Mile, you will finish a hundred-metre stretch with enough paper on your possession to open up a stationery store. It’s a bit annoying and worryingly not very environmentally-friendly, but it’s such a massive part of the Fringe that you have no choice as a performer but to grab a big stack of your own flyers and head out to bother some poor passing tourists.

Given that there are over 3000 shows at the Fringe, competition is fierce and so what you say, and perhaps more importantly, how you say it can be the decisive factor in somebody coming to see your show instead of the guy dressed in drag a couple of feet down from you. You need to do something to catch the eye in the first place. A fellow performer gave us the fantastic idea of getting a big whiteboard and writing “What’s on your Bucket List, Edinburgh?” to try and engage people without having to just blindly promote the show. And then once you have established that relationship and they’re actually willing to listen to you for a minute, then you can try and convince them to buy tickets and come and see you.

And whilst this may just be my personal taste, this “softer” approach is far more effective than the “oversell” tactic. The best example of this being at the Greenside Launch event on our very first day at the Fringe, an American director got talking to us about her show. She summarised it really well initially and I was honestly very willing to come and see it, but she just kept going and going. And ten minutes later, I was now determined to avoid the show at all costs. So that’s the balance: You have to put yourself out there, or you’ll be performing to empty seats each day, but don’t forget that no one, especially if they’re British, has any time for self-obsession.

#2- A Good Technician is like gold-dust

Okay, now this one we found out by sheer luck. Getting a technician was one of the most difficult parts of organising the festival. Some venues book them for you, but Greenside aren’t one of those and whilst they did provide a helpful list of accredited freelancers, the person I had initially booked had to drop out and everybody else had since been snapped up. So after a desperate scramble on a Facebook page, we found Peter literally a week before we started, and only met him the day before our Tech rehearsal.

Given these circumstances, I’d have taken anybody that had two fingers and could therefore move the lighting switches and press play on the computer at the same time. Instead, Pete helped to transform the show from an amateur shambles that wouldn’t have looked out of place in someone’s front room to something that at least resembled a slick, professional production.

The gaping hole in mine and James’s creative knowledge was the technical side and whilst I had tried my hardest to make a legible cue sheet and put all the music in the right order, Pete took one look at our plans on that first meeting and quickly told us that what we wanted was essentially impossible unless he took it all over and programmed it himself.

Now, not everyone will get somebody who is so amenable and willing to help at such short notice so my advice is to find someone who knows what they’re doing as early as possible and trust their superior knowledge to put everything in place. Quite frankly, you’ve got enough to worry about anyway, leave the technical side to those who know what they’re doing. It makes all the difference.

#3- Take time to yourself before each performance

It seems a ridiculous thing to say, but with everything else that’s going on at the Festival, from flyering to social media posts to talking to other performers to arranging to meet friends and family, the thing you think about least is the actual performance at times. So, therefore it is absolutely essential that about a half-hour to an hour before your start time, you go back to the dressing room and get into “the zone.”

Now, all the credit for this has to go to James, who thanks to his acting course, has an endless amount of acting warm-ups that we would run-through each day. I was maybe a bit sceptical at first, but once we had done it a few times, I could actually feel my body relaxing and then re-energising, ready for the performance. Added to that, we would then both switch off from each-other and put our headphones in and listen to music, just to make sure we were mentally in the right places for the start of the play. Everyone is different so there’s no point going through our own routine, but find yours and make sure you do it every day, regardless of everything else you need to do. It would be an awful waste to spend all that time getting people into your space, only to not be ready to impress them once they’re there.

#4- Stick to what you know

One unexpected lesson I learned from Fringe this year was that I am getting old fast. Given that it’s been three years since I’d even been in Edinburgh as a spectator, the world and the methods of promotion have come a long way since then. This year, Fringe was partnered with TikTok. An app I have never used and find about as irritating as Chinese water torture. I know, I’m twenty-four going on eighty-four.

Now, for some performers I bet this is a godsend and I’m sure they used TikTok to great effect during the festival. And we did wonder if we were missing a major trick and so booked a meeting with the Fringe TikTok team to discuss what we could do. The poor woman was probably just doing her job but she lost me almost immediately and once she started showing us her own “fan account” (whatever the actual fuck that means) I stopped listening altogether. We left the meeting respectfully and then looked at each-other, saying at the same time: “We’re not doing that.”

Now, this isn’t meant to be a rant (though it may have slipped into that) but just a pointer that TikTok wouldn’t have worked for us because we wouldn’t know what we were doing. My father, who tried to appoint himself as marketing manager for the show, put up a TikTok of a still image of our poster and a rap song that he didn’t even know he had used. That’s not how we were going to get people in. So, stick to what you’re comfortable with. Better you do what you know well, than do things you don’t understand badly.

#5- Don’t obsess about numbers

We went into the festival saying things like “Oh if we get half-capacity every night, that’ll be pretty good.” Whoops. As mentioned above, there are 3000 shows at the festival and unfortunately your show is rarely going to be at the top of people’s to-see-list. Especially for the first few performances, no-one will even know you exist and so you can’t expect big crowds to turn out. Therefore, you should see it as a success if anyone comes to see you at all. At least you have someone to perform to. This was put into perspective for us as the shows in the slots either side of us both had performances where they didn’t have a single person. Now these were more experienced, and quite frankly better, performers than us, so it shows how difficult and competitive it can be.

And if your show is half-decent, it will pick up. By the end of the run, we were exceeding half-capacity. And thankfully we never had the dreaded empty room. You can track your box-office sales online and I did become a bit pre-occupied with this, mainly because I was essentially watching a live report of my personal financial debt. Obviously it’s a good thing to keep one eye on this, but I’d recommend not worrying about it too much. If you get into the mindset that one performance is more important than another because of who is in the audience, you’ll just mess yourself up.

#6- Reviews: Find the Gold in the Dirt

Reviews are a massive part of the Fringe. If you are struggling to get people in, then a good review can change your fortunes, as people do read publications like The Scotsman and EdFringe Review when deciding what to see. And even now, when I read the Greenside Facebook page, it’s full of acts begging for people to come and see their show, because they’ve got a reviewer in and need to look as impressive as they possibly can.

Now, I think reviews affected us less than your average act because of what I mentioned above regarding us being there to enjoy the ride rather than to “make it big.” But that doesn’t mean we didn’t search them out and read them when they came! It’s human nature to want to be praised and championed and of course no-one is doing Fringe thinking that their act is rubbish so there’s a fair amount of ego involved.

That being said, it’s incredibly important not to obsess about star ratings and quick takes. And even more important to try and get some self-awareness of where your show sits within the Fringe spectrum. There are professional companies that are at the very top of their game selling out hundred-seater venues every single night, being reviewed by the exact same people as you. So, it’s unlikely, bordering on impossible, that you’re going to get five stars each time.

Instead, just take the win that somebody took the time to come and review you at all. We again were incredibly fortunate in this regard as we were reviewed by some pretty prominent publications and whilst they of course didn’t love every single thing about our show, each one said a number of really positive things. That’s what I mean about “finding the gold in the dirt”; always focus on the positives. And if I’m honest, reviewers know what they’re talking about! Nearly everything I read about our show was pretty much spot-on; so when they praise you, make sure you absolutely cherish that.

#7- Get by with a little help from your friends (and family)

Finally, I’m going to shamelessly gush about everyone who supported us during this crazy process. Despite everything I’ve just said about making the most of your Fringe experience, it would all have been irrelevant without our family and friends. Not only have they helped us in a million different ways, from providing accommodation, to buying dinner, to helping us flyer, to taking photos and videos to even fixing our props (Thanks Mum!) but they have also been such a big percentage of our total audience. And for me personally, it relaxed me so much when I was standing behind the curtain, knowing there would be friendly faces in the audience.

So, my final piece of advice or lesson learned from performing at the Fringe is that before you do anything else, make sure you mobilise the support of those closest to you. Everyone will always be able to help in some way and when every cost counts, it helps that they don’t charge for their assistance! More than that, the Fringe can feel overwhelming at times, so having the people you love the most around you to offer comforting words or just to take your mind off the show for a moment is an absolute essential. Perhaps the most important thing of them all.

The Path Between the Cypress Trees- Excerpt 3

Chapter Sixteen

Chiara said she wanted to get out of Arezzo that weekend and so we decided to take the train down to Castiglion del Lago, one of the biggest towns on the edges of Lake Trasimeno. The train journey wasn’t long, but the station was situated at the bottom of the hill with the towering, older buildings of the centre of the town looming in the distance. We made the walk up towards it, with the sun baking down on us. I had to stop to take off my sunglasses and wipe away the sweat that had started to drip into my eyes.

We climbed a steep set of steps and stood in front of the medieval structure that hosted the main streets. In front of us was a fountain, a more modern style than most I had seen in Tuscany, which sprayed water up in parallel directions, forming a sphere out of the deflected splashes in the centre. As we carried along the path that curved to the side of the town, the great blue surface of the lake became visible. It was enormous, more of an ocean than a lake, stretching round the back of the town and pushing against the hills that lined the horizon, shining and shimmering brightly in the sunlight. There was a forested island that stuck out in the middle and a thin and uneven line of sand that ran along at the bottom of the hill to our right. Now we had reached a certain height, the air cooled slightly and there was a light breeze that brushed across the water and rose up towards us.

               “Beautiful, no?” said Chiara, as she wrapped her hand around my forearm.

               “I’ll say.”

We didn’t go down to the water first, as inviting as it was, and instead we climbed some more steps that snaked around and up to the entrance to the town. When we reached the top, there was an open archway in front of us, the entrance to breach the giant walls that enveloped all the buildings inside. We walked through and the streets came into view, with the familiar dim hues of the tattered, old walls, specked with balconies, windows, verandas and umbrellas over seating areas outside bars and restaurants. It was far smaller than Arezzo and there was an obvious curve to the town, so you had to lean around the corner to see further down the street. As we walked, I noticed a number of little, walnut-brown birds, small enough to fit in my hand, that would hop along the cobbles, occasionally jumping up to on a table, even if there were diners sat at it. The locals didn’t seem to mind and I saw one man with stretched, weary skin reach out and try and stroke the tiny visiting creature.

We picked a bar to sit at based on how popular it was and took a seat at one of the outside tables. Chiara had worn a bright, red dress that suited her perfectly and she had tucked her sunglasses on the centre of her head, stylishly keeping her hair out of her face. It took moments where I sat across her like that, in a new setting, to remind me of how stunning she was. I smiled at her and blew her a kiss in the air.

The place proved to be a good choice. I had warm and crusty bruschetta served with a flavoured garlic butter and the tangiest, saltiest anchovies, washed down with chilled, sweet white wine. We took our time and ended up being the last table seated as we savoured the afternoon and each other’s company. Chiara waited a while to ask me one question in particular.

               “Would you find it weird if I invited you to my parents’ house this week?”

               I chuckled and took a sip of wine. “Why?”

               “My mother told me to invite you over for dinner. It’s okay if you don’t want to of course. It’s just for Italian parents, they like to be involved, you know?”

               “Of course I’ll come, if she’s invited me. Do you want me to?”

               “Yeah, I do.” she said and she smiled as she looked away from me.

The wine had made me amenable and I had said yes to make Chiara happy, without actually considering the task I had just agreed to undertake. Immediately thoughts rushed into my mind and nerves began to form in my stomach.

               “Oh god, you’re going to need to tell me what to do.”

               She started giggling. “Relax, Tesoro. Their English isn’t very good so you won’t actually have to speak to them that much. And it’s okay, they’re quite laid-back for parents I think. Though… you should probably get them a gift?”

               “A gift?”

               “Yeah, not anything big. Just like a bottle of wine or something.”

I put my head in my hands and wiped my eyes, staring back at Chiara through the gaps in my fingers.

               “Anything else?” I asked, fearfully.

               “Well, just make sure you’re hungry. Not eating much is basically like spitting in their face.”

               I sat back and breathed out. “Okay I can do that.”

               She widened her eyes and looked tenderly at me. “It will be fine, I promise.”

We finished up our lunch and took a stroll through the rest of the town. I took Chiara’s hand, stopping to bring it to my lips on occasion. I just couldn’t resist touching her in some small way. There wasn’t much more to see, save for a castle tower at the edge, and so we circled back and got some gelato, before deciding to head closer to the lake.

The area at the bottom of the hill was sparser, with only a few seaside bars made up of makeshift gazebos lining the street closest to the water. And then there was a stretch of grass that ended in a beach club, where a few people had rented paddle boards and pedalos. The lake was about fifty or so metres back from the walkway by the grass, with a strange, striped assortment of different surfaces leading out to it. Patches of orangey, clay-like sand and then strips of wet, light green moss and lines of seaweed that had accumulated in trapped, shallow pools of water. The water itself looked even clearer at closer viewing and was a sparkling sapphire colour.

We took a seat on a bench and stared out, admiring the gorgeous view. There were small waves that formed at the closest part of the lake, gently swaying and rising up before evening out again. And there was a large, rough-looking rock that sat like an anchor, a great slab of granite that had been dropped a few feet from the shore.

               Chiara pointed out at it and asked “Do you want to go and walk out to that?”

               I shook my head and replied. “Maybe in a bit. You can go though, if you want to.”

She left me with her bag and belongings and clambered down the rocks to the patchy lead-up to the water. I watched her, carefully at first, in case she slipped, but then I eased into a relaxed, amorous state instead. She looked back at me a few times and I would raise my arm and wave at her. When she reached the water, she allowed the remains of the first waves to wash over her feet, before she started to wade out further, the water gradually rising towards her thighs.

It was one of the most beautiful things I had ever seen. She looked so happy and carefree as she meandered outwards, running her fingers on the surface of the water. The sun would occasionally catch the shine of the back of her hair or the glint in her sunglasses and beam back at me. Her dress against the water made her look like a rose in a sweeping field of delphiniums. I thought then that I would be satisfied if I could watch her forever. Happy with the knowledge that something so elegant had once been mine.

And that thought transformed seamlessly into others. Of the impending meeting with her parents, of our time together overall, and of how endlessly happy and free she made me feel. I began to think of the fact that one of the final days I had in Arezzo could be the last time I ever saw her, and that seemed an impossibility to me. A fact that I couldn’t accept.

And I started to imagine what our lives would be like together, if it was to extend beyond our brief, summertime fling. I saw a house up in the hills that surrounded Arezzo, with a long driveway that tested the gears of any car that attempted to traverse it. With roof tiles made out of terracotta and clean limestone walls and a garden that grew large bushes of different colours, with olive trees and seeds tangled in the grass. With a patio that led into a pool, with a table and chairs that was sheltered under the shade of a porch. Where I could sit and watch as the little birds visited and stood pecking at the water. And I imagined Chiara coming out of the back of the house, with a jug of fresh lemonade or juice. Sitting next to me as we enjoyed the peace and solitude of our home, looking out as our garden was kissed by the light of the Tuscan sun.

I began to think more pragmatically about how I could make it happen. Perhaps I would need to return to England for a while, make sure that I worked out all the necessary visas and other admin that was required. Study Italian so that I could return fluent. Chiara could finish her studies, but I’d visit her in Bologna every chance I got. And then maybe I could get a job teaching English. I quite liked the sound of that. And gradually save up until we had enough to buy the place out in the hills, where I could finally escape to my Tuscan retreat and see out the rest of my life in true happiness. And most pertinently of all, I would never, ever have to be a Junior Purchasing Officer. I thought back to what Seb had said during our call. Was this what I really wanted?

Chiara’s voice called out to me to break me from my slumber. I looked out and could see that she was now almost half-covered by the water. Her hand was in the air and she was gesturing me towards her. She looked so joyful, her perfect smile amplified by the sunlight. It called out to me like a beacon. I smiled and chuckled, getting to my feet and carrying the bag down the rocks and on to the sand.

The surface squelched and disintegrated under my feet, with the consistency being closer to mud and it took me a moment to adjust and take lighter steps. I walked out as far as I could in my shoes and with the belongings, setting them down on a slightly raised island of sand about halfway between Chiara and the path. I took my socks and shoes off and then I headed into the water, stepping through the hairy patches of seaweed. To my surprise and immediate delight, the shallower parts of the lake were as warm as bath water and the sensation as my feet were first submerged sent a pleasant shiver up my body.

I waded out to Chiara, the expression on my face giving away my reaction.

               “It’s so warm, isn’t it?” she said. “It’s heaven.”

               “It really is.” I replied as I looked up at the sky and took a moment to enjoy the dual warmth that was hitting both halves of my body.

We stood there for a while, allowing the waves to gently roll over our legs. To our left, there were smatterings of people also swimming, but no more than twenty. I couldn’t believe it. It was such a pleasurable experience that I wouldn’t have been surprised if the whole town had emptied into the water.

               “I wish I had brought my swimming trunks.” I said to Chiara.

               She smiled knowingly at me. “If you want to swim, we can.”

               I was surprised. “What, in our clothes?”

               She laughed. “Well, are you wearing underwear?”

I nodded and finally got what she was suggesting. I stood for a moment, considering as I looked back at the path full of people. And then back at Chiara, who held her arm slightly to her sides as if waiting for me to decide.

               “Okay, yeah. Let’s do it.”

We returned to where I had placed the bags and stripped down to our underwear, placing our clothes in a hastily-assembled pile on top. And then I took her hand and we ran out into the water once more, Chiara screaming and laughing with excitement. After a few metres, the surface level dipped and we had to break into a paddle, kicking our feet to stay afloat.

I turned and Chiara jumped towards me, wrapping her legs around my waist and her arms around the back of my neck. My hands instinctively reached out to hold her bum. She kissed me intensely on the lips and I could taste the fragrant, seaweed-like water. I held her to me for a while after that and the two of us bobbed in the sumptuous warmth of the lake, looking up at the old buildings of the town in front of us. I thought about it for a few moments, before I decided that it may have been the happiest moment of my entire life.


Chapter Seventeen

Every first weekend of the month in Arezzo, there was a historic and renowned Antiques Fair. It had been one of the city’s major attractions for over fifty years and was therefore something I felt obligated to see. Chiara and I headed out early on Sunday morning to the Piazza Grande where the centre of the fair was located.

The scene that greeted us was bustling, chaotic and compelling. The stalls were constructed under small, square tents and covered the entire courtyard of the Piazza, but in a convoluted manner that seemed to have no recognisable pattern. It was impossible to decipher where one stall ended and another began, nor which items belonged to which vendor. There were large items of furniture, such as wardrobes or sofas or full-length mirrors, left isolated in the spaces between stalls and piles of large collections of objects, ranging from delicately-designed table lamps to huge green bottles that looked like they hadn’t been properly cleaned in a generation. And as we walked through and glimpsed in to the tents at the wares laid out on long tables covered with white cloths, we could see all manner of object. Jewellery and ceramics and books and records and vases and paintings and ornate kitchen tiles and small, wooden figures and even a collection of creepy-looking knitted dolls. Enough to fill an entire house, or a castle even.

We wove our way through and headed for the Vasari Logge to sit down and have a coffee. Even there though, where the stretch of restaurants was located, the stalls remained. In fact the restaurants had compromised their own outside seating to accommodate the stalls setting up beneath the famous stone arches. It was the same as the Giostra del Saracino; in Tuscany, tradition came first and everything else had to make sure they could fit in around the edges of it.

We still managed to grab a table, nearest to the back wall and we ordered coffee and watched the scene unfold. I had learnt to love people-watching in Italy, every interaction told a story, one that I had to unravel myself. Our waitress shouted across us at an elderly man heading into the nearest door and he shouted back. It appeared to be an argument at first but they were both soon laughing and joking with each-other, like old friends. I think it was to do with the inherent nature and spirit of the language. In Italian, everything sounded simultaneously angry and affectionate. A disagreement turned into a cuddle. A telling-off became a shared joke. An argument could transform seamlessly into a declaration of love.

               “Do you want to buy anything from the fair?” asked Chiara.

               “I don’t know, maybe? I haven’t got anything in mind that I want, but I’m happy to just see what we can find.”

               “Maybe you should buy something that reminds you of me.” she said, teasing me. “For when you get back to England.”

The suggestion made my heart sink a little. I hadn’t yet told her of my thoughts about staying in Italy, of prolonging our courtship further than had initially been promised. I wanted to make sure it was the right moment, and in amongst the shouts of the vendors at the nearby market stalls, I decided to wait. It wasn’t that I was fearing a rejection of sorts, it was more a case of handling the conversation delicately enough as to manage expectations going forward.

Instead, I opted to pass on a message from Seb. “I had a call with my friend back in England the other day and I was telling him about you. He said to say hello for him.”

“Oh what did you tell him about me?” said Chiara, a flirtatious look in her eye. “And you can tell him I say hello back, what’s his name?”

               “Seb.” I replied. “And oh you know the normal stuff. What you look like, how we met, how good a shag you are…”

She swatted at my arm playfully and let out a trademark exaggerated gasp, which delighted and aroused me.

               “Stupid boy.” she said tutting. “How was Seb anyway?”

               “Not great.” I said, lowering my voice to signal the change in tone. “When we were growing up, he was always the one out of the two of us who had it together, you know? Like I remember everyone at school and even my parents all thought he was going to do really well. He was just that kind of guy. But he seemed really unsure of himself when I spoke to him, like he wasn’t sure he was doing the right thing?”

               “That happens all the time though. It’s the people who look like they are going to fly through life who often end up getting lost along the way.” said Chiara.

I smiled at her and she looked at me with confusion.

               “That was good.” I said. “You should write that down.”

               “Oh shut up.” she said, laughing.

               “Now say it in Italian.” I said, licking my lips exaggeratedly, and she hit me again.

               “I wonder what he makes of you.” she said after a pause.

               “Who? Seb?”

               “Yes. If like you say, he was always the one who had it together. And now you’re an actor. I wonder if he feels like you’ve overtaken him.”

I looked down instinctively and started fiddling with an empty sugar wrapper. I had almost forgotten the lie that I had told her on our first date. The fact that Seb had now been brought into it made it feel all the worse. I realised that if I did want to stay in Italy with Chiara and live in the beautiful, remote house up in the hills, I might have to let her know at some point that I wasn’t an actor. It might be tough to keep the deceit going in the long-term.

               “Oh, yeah, Chiara…” I started.

               “My parents think it’s very impressive that you’re an actor.” she said, cutting across me. “I think that may be part of the reason they invited you actually.”

I stopped myself from going further, deciding I could keep the lie going a bit for a bit longer, just to keep on the sweet side of her parents, for the first meeting at least. I was aware that all I was doing was kicking the can down the road, but I was nervous enough about the meeting as it was. Having to explain I was a liar, probably in a language I could barely speak, was not going to help.

               I smiled absently at her and said. “Shall we go and have a proper look at the market?”

We took a slow lap around the Piazza, taking a last look at the various collections that were on display there. And then we headed down the Corso Italia where the stalls continued, stretching right down the street on both sides. I loved the apparent incidental nature of it all. None of the sellers ever seemed that bothered, or even interested, as tourists browsed through the items on their tables, often attending to something else in the meantime. I even saw that at one stall that was located directly outside another restaurant, the vendor was reclined in a wooden chair, eating a plate of spaghetti that had been brought to him by one of the waiters. He muttered away to people as they passed by, in between mouthfuls of tomatoey sauce.

I brought one thing on the first stretch, a map of Tuscany that looked like it should have been on the first page of a fantasy novel, complete with oversized drawings of castles and other landmarks, and with the colour being a deep, bloody red, even though I personally imagined Tuscany to be perpetually in a state of olive green. We also popped into a bottega so that I could pick up a bottle of wine to bring when meeting Chiara’s parents. Chiara offered me guidance as to their taste, whilst I deliberately over-estimated the right price and brought a bottle I would have deemed far too expensive if buying for myself.

We turned the corner at the roundabout with the imposing statue of Guido Monaco in its centre and headed back up towards the Basilica di San Francesco. The stalls were less frequent now and I had stopped paying as much attention, my mind starting to think about what I could do to Chiara upon returning to the apartment. However, something caught my eye as we had made it halfway up the street and I nudged Chiara to stop and look at the stall.

               “Look at that.” I said, pointing at my discovery.

It was the Chimera. Technically not the Chimera, but a scaled-down likeness of it, small enough to be held in the palm of my hand. It looked to be made out of bronze, like the original, and it had clearly been designed to copy the exact stance, with only some fading around the expression of the three heads giving it away as an imitation. It was amongst a number of other miniature bronze figurines and it took Chiara a second to work out which one I was pointing out.

               “Oh the Chimera. Cute. Do you want it?”

               “Well, I was just thinking, we would probably never have spoken properly if it hadn’t have been for the Chimera.” I said, wrapping my arm around her.

               “Aw, that’s so sweet.” she said, kissing my cheek.

She turned to the vendor and asked him how much for the figure. I understood their initial interaction, but as soon as he had mentioned the price, she reacted like she had been insulted and launched into a long and rapid speech, hands flapping around wildly. I had no idea what she was saying, but the man seemed to gesture to her to calm down and muttered a different price. She said that it was fifteen euros and I handed the notes over to him.

He wrapped the little Chimera up in a thin felt paper for us and handed it to me, giving me a look that seemed halfway between jealousy and pity. As we walked away, I spoke quietly in Chiara’s ear.

               “What did you say to him? He changed the price right?”

               Chiara slipped her hand in mine. “I just told him what you had told me, Tesoro. Italians are always weak when it comes to love stories.”

I murmured and nodded back, wondering if Italians really were so susceptible to a romantic motive, or simply susceptible to angry, beautiful young women. I clutched my new possession closely in my other hand, feeling satisfied that I now owned a symbol of the city I had called my home as well as the fiery girl who had successfully negotiated for it.

The Path Between the Cypress Trees- Excerpt 2

Chapter Seven

I got on the train to Arezzo the next day. It was a relatively easy journey, my Florence apartment hadn’t been far from the station and I arrived in plenty of time to buy my ticket, work out the right platform and grab a coffee before I boarded. The train itself was beautifully air-conditioned, with comfy seats. The only thing that pissed me off was that there was specks of mud splattered all across the windows of my carriage which meant whilst I could still see out, it prevented me from enjoying the Tuscan countryside to the fullest extent.

Upon reaching Arezzo, I made my way up the hill from the station and found the apartment I would call home for the remainder of my trip. I took the key out of the lock-box next to the door and after battling with the lock for a few seconds, eventually found my way inside. My first glimpse prompted a response that had only occurred on a number of occasions previously.

It had occurred the first time I read The Catcher in the Rye. I finished the last page of the novel and sat unmoved for minutes afterwards, scared to fully close it for fear of somehow breaking the spell it had cast on me. It happened the first time I had taken a bite of an enchilada in my favourite Mexican restaurant, or the first time I had tasted a really good cheesecake, or in later years a vintage glass of wine. Or when my uncle had allowed me a glass of his rum liqueur. I could still recall the sweet, pungent sensation that had lingered in the back of my throat.

It occurred the first time I had met Laura Finney. In my first year of secondary school. I became aware of when she got up at the front of the class to deliver an assessed presentation to our French class. I was immediately struck by her juxtaposed modesty and confidence. She looked intimidated, frightened even, and I could see a small tear was hanging in the corner of her eye. And yet she delivered the speech perfectly, really enunciating every last syllable and nodding her head slightly as she did so, as if she was physically willing herself on. She had a clip at the parting of her hair and at one point in the presentation, her eyes found mine, just for a moment. On the word jouer. I watched her retake her seat at the window. I remember the flaps of the blind blew gently beside her as she leant against the wall.

So, this was the sensation that hit me as I entered my Arezzo apartment. Something resembling love at first sight. The place was lit only by the rays coming through the double-windows in the near-right corner. It was remarkably cool, even though I knew in advance that there was no air conditioning. This was due to the stone walls on the left-hand side, left bare and exposed by design. Their thickness must have been great enough as to block the heat from fully permeating from the outside.

Fabio, the owner, was an interior designer and so it made sense that in every little corner, in practically every available space, there was a randomly chosen object. For example, on the stone wall in the kitchen-come-living space, there was a large superhero poster, lifted straight from the pages of a comic-book. Also stuck on the walls were stickers, showing different cars and motorcycles. Above them were shelves that held everything from decanters to reed diffusers to framed photos of classic American advertisements for breakfast cereals.

There was a breakfast bar that separated the kitchen surfaces from the sofa and TV. It was situated in front of charcoal grey cupboards mounted on the back wall and more shelves, this time covered with little plant pots filled with lucky bamboo and cacti. And on top of the cupboards were a series of bottles, three different soft drinks and then three Heinekens. I had no idea if they still contained drink and didn’t want to test them, in fear of somehow ruining the carefully-assembled ambience of the space.

Better still was the large clock that hung above the sofa, sporting roman numerals in bold, black font and in its centre, an inscription that read: “University of Heidelberg.” That had been the university I had attended on my semester abroad and it only furthered my feeling that I was in a place that would very much feel like home.

Walking through the open doorway into the living room, the large double bed was positioned under a map of the world, painted directly onto the wall. There was a mirror next to me and then a clothes rack opposite it. Everything seemed perfectly positioned; there was a flow that extended from object to object. Next to the mirror was an alcove, that contained nothing but a tray of books, organised in a deliberately haphazard heap. There were also bizarre cubbyholes built into the walls, which you could open and see straight through. One even looked directly into the shower in the bathroom. It was even fit for a voyeur. A pervert’s paradise, as it were.

Finally, my favourite touch of all was located in one of the back corners of the bedroom, above a comfy-looking barrel armchair. It was a sign with a faded globe in the background and then at its front, just the words: “Not all those who wander are lost.” I laughed out loud when I noticed it and felt an intense giddiness wash over me. It was like the apartment was winking at me. As if the walls had perceived me, in the same moment I had first perceived them.

The location of the apartment was incredibly central. If I was to step out my front door, I’d step over the low-hanging chains that connected two bollards just outside. I’d head right and pass a small leather shop on the corner. If I were to take a left then, I’d have a short but steep trip up to the Piazza de Liberta. Where the town hall or municipo proudly stood. I could continue past it, crossing the road to climb the steps that protruded out from the cattedrale at the top of the hill. Beyond that was a beautiful circular park with the Monumento a Francesco Petrarcha in its centre, a large marble sculpture of various figures that looked as if they had merged together as one. The wear and tear on the sculpture only added to this feeling, as the marks on the marble gave it a distinctly liquid quality, as if the figures had gradually melted under the heat of the sun. To the left of the sculpture was a stunning view of the nearby hills and farms that lay on the outskirts of the city. And if I followed the park’s path all the way around, I would eventually arrive at the Fortezza Medicea, an imposing ancient ruin with a wide gate at its head, acting like the jaws of this great beast of a fortress.

If I were to take a right at the leather shop instead, I could either follow the hill down and come to the Basilica di San Francesco and perhaps stop for a glass of wine or a gelato under the watchful eye of the statue of Vittorio Fosambroni, an austere-looking figure that overlooked the adjacent piazza. Or I could take a quick left and follow the small street of Via Bicchieria which I knew roughly translated as ‘way of the glasses’, fitting for the stretch of restaurants that lined it. I would also pass a grand entrance to a theatre, of the ancient amphitheatre style. A welcome little snapshot of Arezzo’s Roman ancestry.

This route would lead me on to the Corso Italia, the longest and busiest street in the city, jam-packed with high-end retailers, cafes and restaurants. It was a strange juxtaposition of a street, seamlessly blending the ancient and the modern. I could still spot the odd mural or fresco on the weary limestone walls, but they would be tucked between women’s fashion stores and a video game shop. If I followed the long road all the way down, I’d eventually find a set of offices. And finally, the Piazza Guido Monaco, a roundabout with another sculpture as its midpoint, surrounded by pedestrians playing chicken with circling cars or flocks of pigeons, flapping and hopping their way across the grass.

The city’s main attraction lay just beyond the Corso Italia and was again only minutes from my front door: the Piazza Grande. It had been what I had most wanted to see in Arezzo, mostly due to my knowledge that it had featured in the Roberto Begnini film, Life is Beautiful. I was a shameless cinephile and would regularly visit somewhere if I knew it had some kind of cinematic heritage. It always seemed to me that it was life imitating art and not the other way around. As if the place existed in the film first and in reality second. And that by visiting, I had therefore ceased to exist in the present for the moment and had instead briefly stepped inside the sphere of the silver screen.

The Piazza was a wonderfully abstract place. It wasn’t actually much of a square at all but rather a sloping, lopsided oblong. It was steepest in the near side to me, with the squares of the courtyard tilting up as they ran along the side of the church and heritage museum. The museum had four matching front windows, all with large iron bars that bulged out of the frames, wider at the bottom so they looked like chequered metal water jugs. In true Tuscan style, it seemed that even the window bars required some kind of artistic expression.

At the back of the Piazza was the Vasari Logge, a tall, aqueduct-like structure that offered shade and shelter to the cafes and restaurants within. It was made up of a series of stone pillars that rose up to create arches, ensuring the piazza life could still be viewed and enjoyed. And then the rest was formed of a mishmash of old, stone buildings, all of different widths and heights, with cafes and tabaccherias at their entrances. They were adorned with flags of the region, vivid shields of differing colours, showing lions and eagles and wolves as their insignias. It was a square that I could just as easily imagine playing host to a coronation or a royal wedding as a public beheading. It belonged to a different age, an age of knights and scrolls and epic ballads. There was a deep, dusky well just in front of the arches of the Vasari Logge. Presumably where they used to dispose of the heads of the executed.

Arezzo had lived up to my expectations. It was just as cultured and surprising and stylish as I remembered. And with my trendy studio home right at the heart of it, I felt I had managed to be more than just a visitor. I had successfully sewn myself into the fabric of the place, if only for a few weeks. 


Chapter Fourteen

During the time I had to myself whilst Chiara worked at the museum, I returned to my new hobby of finding random excursions in Arezzo and the surrounding areas. I had read in a guidebook mention of the Ponte Buriano, a famous bridge located a few miles out of the city, that was believed to have been painted by Da Vinci, in the background of the Mona Lisa

It was essentially just a bridge in the middle of the Tuscan countryside, with no real encouragement or incentive for tourists to visit, in the form of any direct public transport or car parks. This only appealed to me more, with the bridge becoming the object of a kind of spiritual pilgrimage that I wanted to undertake.

I made my way to a bus stop on the edge of Arezzo, wandering up and down the street a few times before deciding I had located the correct spot. Buses in Italy were imbued with the same vigilante spirit as the cars. In the sense that one never really seemed to arrive at the time advertised, often bore no relation to the expected number, whilst most tellingly, the drivers would not stop unless you were essentially already hanging halfway out the door.

By these standards, my bus journey was relatively straightforward and stress-free as I followed the route on my phone as we drove along the winding country roads, making sure I pressed the button and was standing ready at the door well in advance of my stop. The driver pulled over slightly to his right, on what appeared to be no more than a hard shoulder on the edge of the bridge. I muttered a “grazie” and hopped out.

My surroundings were, as I had expected, wholly bare and unremarkable. They were so unremarkable in fact that if I had successfully stumbled across the ‘nowhere’ I had sarcastically informed Ben that I was searching for. There were a series of signs to mark the bridge and a map of the nearby nature reserve that had faded beneath the moss that had grown over it. Opposite me was an ordinary street corner with no sign of commercial life, except for, of all things, a unisex hairdressers. There was a barn-like structure on the river bank, consisting of some half-finished stone walls and a patched-together-roof. A Da Vinci painting, this was not.

Most worryingly, I couldn’t actually see the bridge at all. I followed the road around the corner and came to a small tabaccheria that was boarded up. A fitting allegory for the whole place. If it hadn’t have been for some cycling teenagers, I might never have found what I had come looking for. They appeared over the road from me, riding down a dirt-track that I had disregarded as part of someone’s private property. Their appearance made me inspect the area more closely. The sight of a children’s play area of slides and swings was encouraging and then a public service sign of what you could and couldn’t do suggested that I was in fact allowed to be there. I continued on past the strange, deserted yard and was delighted to see a series of benches spaced out along the edge of the river and the famous arches of the Ponte Buriano finally within view.

It was completely empty, save for one man sat on a bench a few down from the one I selected as my own. I greeted him with my cheeriest “ciao” as I passed and he offered me a nod of acknowledgment. I took my seat and looked out to take in the scene unfolding in front of me.

The Arno was stretched wide between the two banks and the water lay perfectly still. Blossom had fallen from the overhanging trees and created a thin carpet that extended through two of the bridge’s arches on either side. Plants grew tall on each bank, reaching over my head height, with green and brown weeds tucked beneath them, rising from the level of the water. However, amidst all this untamed foliage, there were still touches of beauty, as specks of lavender had started to grow out at the top of the banks, granting drops of purple to the otherwise mossy green reefs.

And then there was the bridge. Still perfectly intact, and sturdy enough for waves of cars to pass over every few minutes. Made from a combination of different stones, ranging from sand-coloured to an almost silverish grey; with seemingly not one individual brick having fallen from it. Moss grew out of the pillars on either side, settling in wiry tufts on their tops, to give the illusion of stone pineapples. And then the arches. Short and wide, giving a big enough gap that it looked like the bridge had taken long, measured steps across the river.

And even on a uncharacteristically grey day for Tuscany, their reflective power was still on show. The bridge was perfectly mirrored below it, to the extent that the arches ceased to in fact be arches at all and were instead complete circles, separated only by the water level. It was two bridges in one. The reality a practical passing point for commuters in and out of the Arezzo area and beyond; its reverse image a reminder of its timeless, artistic credentials.

As I observed it, I noticed splashes and ripples, no bigger than the press of a finger, start to appear sporadically in the water. And I felt a drop a moisture briefly glaze the back of my neck. It had started to rain. Ever so gently, and not to an extent that would sour the experience. Instead, it just brought the landscape picture in my mind’s eye sparking into life. The river rippling and flickering like a dormant piano that had suddenly and spontaneously released a tune.

The man down from me left his bench and walked nonchalantly to reach his car, parked on the curb nearby. I watched him drive off and disappear round the corner, next to the raggedy old barn. I was fascinated by him. He had clearly come for no other purpose than to find some time for himself, with only the famous, old bridge for company. It was like he was visiting an old friend, able to silently speak and share with it secrets he could tell no-one else.

I think it must have been his actions that inspired me, but I began to have the urge to explore further into the countryside. To delve a little more into the wilderness. I looked at my location on my phone and saw what was around me. The nearest sign of civilisation was a town called Castiglion Fibochhi, which was about an hour’s walk away. I considered it for a few moments before I rose from the bench and headed away from the Ponte Buriano and off on a mini adventure.

I discovered fairly quickly into my journey that the path would mainly consist of walking on the sides of some busy roads. I figured my random expedition wouldn’t be as effective or enjoyable if I was killed en route and so I decided to get off at the nearest junction on the route and head off-piste. It was as I was walking along the meandering, narrow roads that I subsequently discovered, with rows of grape vines and sunflowers on either side of me and the dusky hills in the background, the feeling of freedom I had been craving. I unbuttoned my shirt and raised my arms in the air as I stared up at the sky, basking in my own glorious isolation.

I continued to stray further from the initial route by cutting down one of the gravel paths that dissected two of the vineyards. I had no idea if it was private land or if I was trespassing, but I didn’t care. There was not another soul that crossed paths with me for at least an hour, and I continued to tread along the dusty walkway, deeply embroiled in nothing but my own thoughts.

Eventually, I came to a tiny monument, that looked like a worn-down confessional with a small statue of an angel at its peak. Beside it was a graveyard, with a locked gate at its front, but with the graves still visible within. I peered in to read them. The writing had faded on the small, square tombstones but there were fresh flowers laid at the base of some of them. I supposed that there couldn’t have been more than twenty-five graves in the entire plot. It was the kind of graveyard you could surely only find by accident, as I had managed to do.

And it was there that I made a vow, spoken out loud to no-one. I would be buried in this plot. I would need to tell somebody, probably Seb, of my intentions in the time leading up to my death. Perhaps I would write him a letter, complete with instructions and some loose co-ordinates of where to find the graveyard. And I would set him the goal of burying me there, or at least overseeing the process of me being buried there. It seemed so perfect to me. The middle of nowhere, in a place you could only find by accident. My remains planted in Tuscan soil, with a flower brought there every few years by any who still remembered me. Maybe someone could pluck some of the lavender that lined the banks by the Ponte Buriano, thus copying and honouring the journey I had taken myself. The thought made me smile and I finished the rest of my walk in excellent spirits.

The Path Between the Cypress Trees- Excerpt 1

Chapter 1

For me, it was always going to be Tuscany.

I had only been once before, when I was a child. My parents had taken me when I was around ten or eleven I think, and we had stayed in a villa on the outskirts of the city of Arezzo, tucked in the easternmost sector of the region. I am an only child and thus family holidays were never an occasion I looked forward to, but rather an obligation I felt compelled to fulfil in my agreed role as dutiful son. More akin to the experience of a dentist’s appointment. Never entirely unpleasant, but equally never more than a date in the calendar to tick off every passing year.

However, even given those undesirable circumstances, I still found myself completely enthralled by Tuscany. It was a place that encouraged you to lift your head and take in every little detail around you. The soft yellow hue of the ancient walls, the uneven cobbles of the streets, the grandeur of the churches, the beauty of the statues and the dark green lushness of the distant hills. It felt removed from anything I had known before. And everywhere that I visited subsequently could never quite live up to it either.

My abiding memory of that hallowed holiday is a specific one. I had been allowed to wander alone by my parents, a common practise borne out of their simultaneously relaxed and distant parenting style. I had found my way into a kind of park, though these details remain blurred, that ultimately led on to a long, straight promenade made up of a gravel path. And this is where the picture turns crystal clear. To the left was the beginning of one of those iconic hills, with a steep bank slanting upwards, filled with wild plants and bushes. To the right was the view. Vast and glorious. A sun-kissed scene of fields and vineyards, with smatterings of houses, all marked by the bent clay tiles on the rusty, red roofs. In the distance was the first curve of a lake, emerging from another hill and perching on the line of the horizon, like a silver platter on a dining table.

This stunning scenery would flicker in and out of view, between the branches of tall cypress trees that lined either side of the path. Their trunks were thin but they then expanded into bristling bouquets of leaves at their tips, allowing the path to be almost entirely sheltered in shade. It stretched on far beyond my eye and I hadn’t dared to follow it to its end, for fear of being unable to return to my parents in time. Instead, I just stood and admired. It felt to me then that I had disappeared briefly into another world. That I had wandered off the map. That, if for just one moment, I had managed to get lost in time.

Chapter 2

Around thirteen years later, I took a seat at the entrance to Gate Twenty-Three at London City Airport, dragging my suitcase close to my side. I was one of the first passengers to have arrived at the gate, but I squirmed against the back of the chair to try and get as comfortable as possible, knowing it would still be some time before I got on the plane.

I studied the face of the suited airline employee who stood behind the monitor, a few feet in front of the closed door leading down to the apron. I tried to gauge from his manner any clues as to the state of the flight. The airport, and perhaps the entire world, was still stumbling their way back into the light after being trapped under the darkness of a pandemic. It felt, at that moment anyway, that we had made it through the main, seismic tremors of the earthquake but were still suffering the occasional aftershock. The rational part of my mind urged me to therefore look upon the man with sympathy, but its counterpart was trying to hold him personally responsible for my own inconvenience.

The events leading up to me taking that seat at the airport terminal were both recent and relevant. It had been less than two weeks earlier that I had received an email through from Bastille Limited, a premium procurement organisation based in London. It referenced an attached document, a contract of employment set to commence on the 10th August. With my name, in bold, at the top and a space for my signature at the bottom. An official, legal confirmation of what had long since been agreed. That I was to join the company as a ‘Junior Purchasing Assistant.’

In fact, the event was so mundane that it elicited no reaction at all from me at first. I opened the document, printed it and began to flick through the various pages, only reading every other word. I could have been a sophisticated form of an android, programmed to scan and then mark the contract with my signature, as long as it passed successfully through my processing system. It was only when I reached the “Duties” section, that the ghost in the machine roared to life.

“Unless prevented by incapacity, the Employee shall devote the whole of his/her time, attention and abilities to the business of the company.” I stopped reading, retreated my eyes to the start of the sentence and read it again. Pausing to read the same sentence twice can nearly always serve to change its meaning, and such was the case. No longer was I reading a commonplace confirmation of the next progression in my professional life, but a warrant. I ceased to be myself, a sentient, complex human being and had instead become: “The Employee.” Serving no other purpose than to devote the whole of my limited time to “the business of the company.” And in that one instance, I was no longer an ambitious young man who had secured a promising first graduate role, but a lamb, meekly surrendering themselves to their own slaughter.

I became aware that I was sweating and I felt trembles rung along the skin of my arms and legs. I didn’t even to attempt to break myself from the trance that had overcome me. I just stayed staring blankly at the words on the page. Eventually, I was able to finish reading the rest of the contract. Taking out a black, ballpoint pen, I hesitantly scribbled in the necessary section of the final page.

Not signing had never been an option. Even with my anxiety-induced epiphany, I had come too far to quit on the final hurdle. A tenancy signed on a flat in London, which had involved a sizable loan taken from my parents. An announcement on the family group chats of my appointment. A budget drawn up, completely dependent on my agreed monthly salary. I would work for Bastille Limited. I would be their latest “Junior Purchasing Assistant.” That was to be my life. My sentence even. Commencing the 10th August.

Instead, my thoughts turned to the month I had before that date. I had gotten to know myself well enough that I now recognised and understood my reactions to issues and stressors. And I was undeniably, and proudly, an advocate of flight over fight. It had first surfaced in my attempts to randomly board a directionless train after a fierce argument with my mother. It had continued through my pathetic fleeing from a drunken altercation outside a nightclub whilst at university. And now in the face of full-time employment, I wanted to get as far away as possible from anything resembling that impending reality.

I considered my finances. I could certainly afford a holiday. I had worked a part-time job at a supermarket throughout university and I had never been a prolific spender. This meant I had acquired a small but significant surplus. A surplus whose existence was based purely on being there should I ever need it. And I never had.

Locations drifted in and out of my mind, like I was playing myself a personal holiday slideshow. Greece, Spain, Canada, Bali. And then the memory returned to me once more. I was swept back to the long, shadowed promenade. And the path between the cypress trees.

I booked the entire holiday that day. Flights in and out of Florence. A few nights stay in an apartment in the central Santa Maria Novella district. And then down to Arezzo. To stay for the rest of the month. Partly because it was cheaper to stay there than somewhere more renowned. Partly because I wanted to desperately try and reclaim what I had discovered there in my youth.

It had only occurred to me afterwards that my impulsive escape had essentially turned into a twenty-first-century adaptation of a “Grand Tour.” A cultural tour of Europe, to accompany and perhaps complete my education, both as a scholar and a man. This only increased my appetite for the trip. I was a shameless lover of the Romantics and anything that connected me in some way to the likes of Byron or Shelley served as only further justification.

I had decided on only one suitcase to accompany me, with a smaller rucksack inside to be used as required on excursions. My packing list was not an extensive one and consisted of the following items: Ten t-shirts (ranging in colour from navy to grey); two pairs of shorts (one smart pair, one comfortable); as many pairs of pants and socks as I had available; a phone charger and an adapter borrowed from my father; a toiletry bag consisting of little more than toothpaste, shower gel and hair wax; two easy-iron shirts for an occasion on which I might need to impress; my passport; a bottle of sun cream and two books: Under the Tuscan Sun by Frances Mayes, part guidebook to the area of Tuscany I was visiting, part spiritual companion to my “grand tour” and finally, Salinger’s The Catcher in the Rye, because I couldn’t bear to be without it. Everywhere I had been after first purchasing the book, Holden Caulfield had joined me.

Similarly minimalist was the list of people whom I informed of my plans. My parents seemed surprised at the timing but were otherwise as neutral and unconcerned as ever. The only other person offered the privilege was my oldest and closest friend, Seb. He had moved away for work himself in the last year and so I couldn’t inform him in person, but we exchanged a series of messages. He didn’t question the decision in the slightest, which was exactly why he was who I chose to tell, and after wishing me well and expressing excitement at me telling him about it on my return, he signed off with the closing quip: “Just make sure you actually come back…”

The airline guy made his announcement. We could finally start to board the plane. The now-full seating area began to empty and filter through the doors, series of passports and boarding passes held out for inspection. I offered my politest, fakest smile as I passed by. Once I had found and taken my seat on the plane itself, I hid myself behind the guise of my earphones and swivelled my head to stare absently out the window, long before the plane began to move. My thoughts briefly returned to the contract. To Bastille Limited. To being “The Employee.” I dismissed them. That could wait. My Grand Tour, my Tuscan retreat, my greatest escape even, was about to commence.